Honda Sohc Cb500 Cb550 Cb750 Cb400f Cb Adjustable Regulator Oregon Mc Parts

  Exceptionally High Quality, USA MADE!!! not taiwanese junk! by Tony at Oregon Motorcycle Parts http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/ PLUG AND PLAY HONDA Separate oem style REGULATOR  (no rectifier)   for SOHC CB550 CB750  CB500 etc. Adjustable Voltage regulator for 1969~1978 500 to 750cc SOHC in-line four cylinder Hondas. Adjustable from 14.2 volts from 1500 RPM to red line.  You can adjust the for a max output of 14.7v. 90 day warranty ! Any problems, and i will send you another one! Brand new, Solid State regulator unit. It is time to upgrade to SOLID STATE!!!! We've come a long way in 45 years! join us in the new millenium! Fits all CB750 69-78   and CB500/CB550 71-78 14.2 - 14.7 DC voltage output 3 wire separate, color coded terminals, plugs into the wiring harness right where the stock one did. Or, use your own connector block or wire in for custom applications. Notes: The ignition switch itself is the number one problem in the 77-78 models... also melted connectors and oxidized connector terminals throughout the bike. You gotta clean/or replace EVERY CONNECTOR! I replace the ignition switch and fuse box, along with the reg/rec and repair all connections on every SOHC i get, both early models, and especially later '77-78. The later 77-78 handlebar mounted ignition switches are THE WORST! the plastic bottom part always comes loose, and you will have a bad connection! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Charging system diagnostics for 1969 ~1978 Honda SOHC Fours: Before you can suspect any charging system component of failing you first should check all the easy stuff.  First make sure all the cells in the battery have electrolyte up to the full line.  Use a hydrometer (a fancy name for a tube with floating balls in it) and check all the cells after the battery has been charged. You can get a hydrometer for only a few dollars at most bike shops.  The ones made for cars are way to big to use on 99% of bike batteries.  Once you are sure you have a good battery... Next check all the connectors. The battery cables and all the other wiring connections should all be clean and tight.  A weak or dirty connection can cause poor charging system output.  A melted plug is also a sign of a loose or dirty connector.  The heat comes from the resistance of completing the circuit through oxide (or oil and dirt) on the surface of the terminals.  If you use spray cleaner to flush out any plugs check for signs that the plug is being damaged from the solvent and discontinue using it if there is.  Also use an air nozzle (or caned air) to blow out the connectors after cleaning them.  Some of the spray lubes like WD-40 are good for cleaning out connectors but I do not endorse them as lubricants. Again check to make sure the spray lube is not damaging the plastic plugs or insulators. Bikes with mechanical voltage regulators may also need to have the points in the regulator cleaned or better yet replace it with an all electronic voltage regulator. An analog meter is preferred but digital meter is OK for these tests but you'll have to take into consideration the static resistance in the meter.   This article assumes that you have basic proficiency with an electrical multi-meter. Start by removing the left side cover and unplug the 8 or (9 pin on some models) plug from the alternator windings to the wiring harness. Set the meter to the lowest resistance setting, Rx1 on an analog meter or 0 to 200 ohm scale (sometimes only labeled 200) on a digital meter.  On the engine side test the resistance between the yellow wires in all combinations.  You should get .5 to 1.2 ohms resistance here.  Next check from the yellow wire to ground and you should get infinite resistance (or the same resistance as air.) Next check the resistance from the white to the green wire.  The spec here is 4 to 6 ohms but I've found that a little out either way is OK but more than 1 ohm out is usually bad.  Next test either the white or green wire to ground and you should get infinite resistance.  The green wire plugs into a ground connection but when it's not connected to the harness it shouldn't be grounded when unplugged.   If all this checks out, move to the wiring harness side of the plug and Test the green wire to ground.  You should get no detectable resistance here or in other words: the same resistance as when touching the meter probes together. If this is all good, plug the 8 (or 9 pin on some bikes) plug back together. Now set the meter to DC volts and unplug the voltage regulator.  Turn on the main ignition switch but set the handlebar switch to off.  Check the voltage from positive to negative across the battery then check the voltage from the black wire that would have plugged in to the voltage regulator to ground.  If there is less at the black wire than at the battery, you have a wiring problem.  This can be tested by making up a fused jumper wire to run from the positive side of the battery to the black wire on the regulator.  Then run the bike and check the voltage output. Assuming the power to the regulator OK:  plug everything back together; turn on the main switch and the handlebar switch off.  Either hand a paper clip from string or use a .002 feeler gage blade and lay it up against the end of the alternator case (where the screws are that hold the field coil are) then pull it away.  The magnetism of field coil should bend the gage or hold the paper clip when you try pull it away.  This test proves that at least the regulator is working a little. Now test the rectifier : Start with one lead of the meter (or test light) to the positive lead on the rectifier.  Touch the other test lead one at a time to each of the AC terminals of the rectifier.  At this point you will either have continuity or not but it should be the same with all the AC terminals on the rectifier. Swap the test leads (still working with the positive terminal of the rectifier) and repeat the test.  This test should have the opposite result as the previous test.  Again the result should be the same for each of the AC leads. Move on to the negative lead off the rectifier and repeat the 2 previous tests.  This is test is easier with a test light than with an electrical meter.  The point is to check that power flows one way but not the other and the exact numbers isn't as important.  If your meter has a buzzer for continuity, this works very well too. If the rectifier fails all tests with a digital meter, it may not be the rectifier but that you're using the meter on the wrong scale. Set the meter to the diode test function and test it again.  If your meter doesn't have this, it's time for a new meter. This will catch a bad rectifier 95% of the time. The rest of the time they only fail under load and will usually get pretty hot.   Set the meter back to the lowest resistance setting and test the resistance from the white wire to ground.  You should get the same reading here as before when you did the test from white to green at the plug.  Any discrepancy here is a wiring problem.  Unplug the rectifier and check the resistance between the yellow wire and once again you should get the same resistance as at the alternator plug. If this is all OK then remove the ground wire from the battery then test the resistance between the red wire where the rectifier plugs into the positive battery cable.  Then test from the red wire to the rectifier to the red wire at the ignition switch. There should be no detectable losses here. Since the ignition switch is unplugged, test the resistance from red to black wires in the on position.  Any detectable resistance here is bad. If you resolve all this and you bike still doesn't charge correctly, there is one more thing to do to prove the problem is in the voltage regulator.   Start by running the bike until it is warmed up enough to idle properly.  Use a fused jumper wire and jump power from the positive side of the battery directly to the white wire that plugs into the regulator.  This will give the bike full charging all the time so do not run the engine over 1500 RPM or you risk boiling the battery and blowing bulbs.  With the engine running test the voltage output at the rectifier to ground with the engine running at idle and 1200 RPM.  If you get good charging, you need a new voltage regulator. ------------------------------------------------- actual Pricetronic feedback : HAPPY BUYER! Great Service, Fast Delivery! Back on the road again! 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